Balmain, the French luxury fashion house, has unveiled its Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection, inspired by the founder Pierre Balmain’s travels across Asia. The collection, presented at the historic boutique at 44 Rue Fraçois 1er, features modern plays on Vietnamese, South Korean and Japanese souvenir jackets, as well as new iterations of Pierre Balmain’s lucky swallow motif.
A Stylistic Melting Pot of Continental References
The collection offers a variety of styles that reflect the diverse influences of Asian cultures, while maintaining the Parisian design codes that define Balmain. Souvenir coats, which were popularized by American soldiers who brought them back from Asia after World War II and the Korean War, are adorned with fiery dragon motifs, kite illustrations and floral patterns. The coats come in different shapes and materials, such as blousons, varsity jackets, top coats and patent leather.
The swallow motif, which was considered a symbol of good luck by Pierre Balmain, also appears in various forms throughout the collection. The motif is embroidered in beads, molded in recycled plastic, printed on silk and incorporated into the deconstructed tailoring and sectional panels. The motif also references the founder’s love for birds, which he kept in his Parisian apartment.
A Tribute to Pierre Balmain’s Global Vision
The collection is not only a homage to Pierre Balmain’s Asian travels, but also a reflection of his global vision and cosmopolitan spirit. According to creative director Olivier Rousteing, who quoted the founder’s close friend Gertrude Stein: “Rose is a rose is a rose is a rose.” Rousteing explained that this means “there is no difference between cultures, between people, between genders.”
Rousteing also said that he wanted to show that Balmain is a French luxury house that embraces diversity and inclusivity. He said that 20% of the collection is meant to be unisex, with accessible sizing. He also added that he wanted to create a collection that would make people happy and optimistic in these challenging times.
A Colorful and Exuberant Display of Craftsmanship
The collection showcases the craftsmanship and creativity of Balmain’s atelier, which had to overcome a major setback when a part of the collection was stolen by carjackers on its way from Charles de Gaulle airport. Rousteing said that they were able to remake 70% of the collection in a short time, thanks to the dedication and passion of his team.
The collection features a vibrant palette of colors, such as red, green, blue, pink and orange, as well as contrasting black and white. The fabrics range from wool and silk to patent leather and rubber. The accessories include Cuban boots, chain-strapped conical bags filled with bouquets of roses and sunglasses with metal frames.
The collection also includes some pieces that echo Balmain’s previous couture and ready-to-wear collections, such as the angular shoulder jackets with gold buttons, the pleated ruffle skirts and the intricate embroidered pieces. Rousteing said that he wanted to pay tribute to the house’s heritage and legacy, while also looking forward to the future.
