Chef Jon Kung’s new cookbook, Kung Food, showcases the dishes that reflect his multicultural identity and culinary journey.
Third-culture cooking is a term that describes the cuisine of people who have grown up in more than one culture, or who have been influenced by multiple cultures in their lives. It is not the same as fusion cuisine, which often involves superficially combining ingredients or techniques from different cuisines without much regard for their origins or meanings. Third-culture cooking, on the other hand, is more organic and personal, as it reflects the lived experiences and stories of the people who create it.
Chef Jon Kung is one such person. Born in Los Angeles, raised in Hong Kong, and now based in Detroit, he has been exposed to a variety of cuisines and cultures throughout his life. His new cookbook, Kung Food: Chinese American Recipes from a Third-Culture Kitchen, which comes out on October 31, 2023, is a collection of dishes that represent his third-culture identity and culinary journey.
What are Some Examples of Third-Culture Dishes?
Kung Food features recipes that range from traditional to unconventional, but all of them have a story behind them. Some of the dishes are inspired by Kung’s family history, such as the Hong Kong-style borscht, which is a legacy of the Russian refugees who settled in the city after the Bolshevik Revolution. Some are influenced by his travels and encounters with other chefs, such as the jollof rice claypot, which he learned from Nigerian chef Tunde Wey at his pop-up in Detroit. Some are simply expressions of his creativity and curiosity, such as the mapo tofu jjigae, which combines two spicy stews from China and Korea.
Some of the dishes also reflect the history and diversity of the Chinese diaspora around the world. For example, the chow mein with jerk chicken pays homage to the thousands of southern Chinese immigrants who were brought to Jamaica, Trinidad, and Guyana as indentured laborers in the 1800s. The Brazilian feijoada with Chinese sausages and lap yuk (cured pork belly) shows how Chinese immigrants adapted to local ingredients and tastes in South America.
Why is Third-Culture Cooking Important?
Third-culture cooking is important because it celebrates diversity and creativity in food. It challenges the notion of authenticity and purity in cuisine, which can be limiting and exclusionary. It also acknowledges the complexity and fluidity of cultural identity, which can be shaped by multiple factors and change over time. Third-culture cooking is a way of honoring one’s roots while also embracing one’s influences and innovations.
Kung hopes that his cookbook will inspire others to explore their own third-culture cooking and share their stories through food. He says, “I want people to see that there’s no right or wrong way to cook or eat. There’s only your way.”
