Rick Owens: Black-Eyed Demons in Leather and Silk
Rick Owens, the lord of darkness, returned to his customary stage at Palais de Tokyo, where he set the mood with tinted fog and neon lights. His collection, titled “LIDO”, was inspired by Icelandic artist Björk, and explored his own interpretation of everyday joy. The result was a parade of black-eyed models in dramatic silhouettes that expanded his dark universe.
Owens played with unconventional shapes and materials, such as leather, silk, and lattice-like embellishments. His signature pointed shoulders protruded from cropped motorcycle jackets and exaggerated vests, while dark brides were veiled in sin. Cylinder-shaped garments arrived larger than life and oozed with futurism, while silk ensembles blew against the wind with cinematic flair. Owens also introduced heeled versions of his footcast shoe, adding a touch of elegance to his edgy style.
The designer said he wanted to create a “celebration of life” with his collection, which was also a tribute to his late mother. He said he felt a connection with Björk’s music, which he described as “a kind of ecstatic joy that is tinged with melancholy”. He also said he was influenced by the pandemic and the climate crisis, which made him appreciate the beauty of nature and human connection more.
Schiaparelli: Surrealism Meets Couture
Schiaparelli, the historic house founded by Elsa Schiaparelli in 1927, has been revived by Daniel Roseberry, who took over as creative director in 2019. Roseberry has been injecting new energy and relevance into the brand, while honoring its legacy of surrealism and innovation. His latest collection, presented at the Opéra Garnier, was a stunning display of couture craftsmanship and artistic expression.
Roseberry said he wanted to create a collection that was “a celebration of the imagination”, and that he was inspired by the surrealists’ concept of “the marvelous”. He said he wanted to make clothes that were “not just beautiful, but also surprising, shocking, and sometimes even disturbing”. He achieved this by using unexpected materials and techniques, such as gold-plated brass, molded leather, hand-painted silk, and embroidery.
The collection featured references to Schiaparelli’s iconic motifs, such as the eye, the lobster, the shoe, and the padlock. It also included nods to other artists, such as Salvador Dali, Man Ray, Marcel Duchamp, and Jean Cocteau. Some of the standout pieces were a dress with a giant eye on the chest, a coat with lobster-shaped buttons, a suit with a shoe-shaped pocket, and a gown with a padlock-shaped bustier. The accessories were equally impressive, such as earrings shaped like lips or noses, necklaces made of spoons or forks, and hats that resembled cages or birds.
Roseberry said he wanted to challenge the boundaries of fashion and art, and to create clothes that were “not just wearable, but also collectible”. He said he was proud to work for a house that had such a rich history and legacy of creativity.
Category: Fashion
Meta Description: Rick Owens and Schiaparelli presented their Spring/Summer 2024 collections at Paris Fashion Week, showcasing their creativity and craftsmanship in leather, silk, brass, and more.
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