Brewed Protein is a novel material that is produced by fermenting plant-derived ingredients using microorganisms, similar to how beer is brewed. It is a structural protein that can be customized at the molecular level to create various types of fibers, fabrics, and products. Brewed Protein is biodegradable, renewable, and carbon-neutral, making it a potential solution for the environmental challenges faced by the fashion industry.
How did Goldwin x Spiber collaborate?
Goldwin, a Japanese outerwear brand, and Spiber, a biotechnology venture, have been working together since 2015 to develop apparel products using Brewed Protein. They have released several limited-edition items, such as a T-shirt, a sweater, a shell jacket, a fleece jacket, and a denim set. However, these products were sold in small quantities due to the limited production capacity of Brewed Protein.
In 2022, Spiber started mass production of Brewed Protein at its plant in Thailand, which enabled Goldwin to launch its first full collection using the material in Fall/Winter 2023. The collection features nine items, including a ski-inspired coat, a trench coat, a hoodie, a sweater, a crewneck sweatshirt, a warm down shirt, a long-sleeve shirt, a slim-cut tech pant, and a denim set. The collection is based on the concept of “Regenerative Circle”, which reflects the circular nature of Brewed Protein production and consumption.
What are the benefits of Brewed Protein?
Brewed Protein has several advantages over conventional materials used in the fashion industry. Some of them are:
- It reduces the dependency on fossil fuels and animal-derived materials, which are associated with high greenhouse gas emissions, land use, water consumption, and animal welfare issues.
- It can be engineered to have different properties and functions, such as strength, elasticity, warmth, softness, water resistance, and color.
- It can be recycled and composted at the end of its life cycle, returning to the soil as nutrients for plants.
- It can be produced locally and on-demand, reducing the need for long-distance transportation and inventory management.
What are the challenges of Brewed Protein?
Brewed Protein is still a new and emerging technology that faces some challenges in terms of scalability, cost-effectiveness, quality control, and consumer acceptance. Some of them are:
- It requires large-scale fermentation facilities and sophisticated equipment to produce high-quality fibers and fabrics.
- It is more expensive than conventional materials due to the high research and development costs and the low production volume.
- It needs to meet the standards and regulations of different countries and regions regarding safety, quality, labeling, and certification.
- It has to compete with established brands and products that have loyal customers and market share.
What are the future prospects of Brewed Protein?
Brewed Protein is expected to grow in popularity and demand as more consumers become aware of its environmental and social benefits. Goldwin aims to shift 10% of its overall production to Brewed Protein by 2030. Spiber also plans to collaborate with other brands and industries to expand the applications of Brewed Protein beyond fashion. For example, Spiber has partnered with Mazda to develop bio-based materials for automobiles.
Brewed Protein is not only a material but also a vision for a more sustainable future. As Goldwin’s designer Julia Rodowicz said in an interview with Hypebeast: “We hope that by creating products that are both functional and beautiful we can inspire people to think about their consumption habits and how they affect our planet.”
